2000 Delas Cotes du Ventoux

Among the warm and cheerful wines produced near the southern end of the Rhone River, I often seek out those of the Cotes du Ventoux. It’s east of the river (on the left bank, winemakers say), where the beautiful, rolling, sun-bathed land is hospitable to at least a dozen different grapes.

The grapes, in turn, produce wines that mature early and are true values. Consider this red. Made from two of the Rhone’s greatest grapes, grenache (80 percent) and syrah (20 percent), vinified and aged in stainless steel, this wine is bright ruby red and offers a pleasing ripe cherry flavor.

At $9, it’s a delightful companion to favorite foods of this season, including meat stews, cassoulet, and pasta with sausage.