When bringing a wine to table, of all elements to consider in a dish and its preparation, the most important is how much salt it contains. A bit of salt is no worry (and actually makes any wine taste milder or smoother), but a marked amount of salt makes the wine choice crucial. This soup adds salt to salt: cured ham plus canned soup plus shredded cheese equals a fair amount of salt. Wines low in acidity or high in alcohol are poor pours in the presence of salt, but any zesty wine, especially one with a tad of sweetness, will win.
THE FOOD: Jazzed-up split pea soup
Cook 2 minced shallots in 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat until softened, 5 minutes. Add 1 cup cubed cooked ham and 1 teaspoon garam masala or curry powder; cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Stir in 1 can (14 1/4 ounces) split pea soup (not concentrated). Cook until flavors blend, about 5 minutes. Place 4 slices French baguette on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese and a pinch of cayenne. Bake at 400 degrees until cheese melts and bread is crisp, 5 minutes. Serve soup with the cheese crisps. Makes: 2 servings
THE WINES
2010 McKinley Springs Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, Wash.: Washington reds can be so plush that they just glide on through, sweetly, like cooked-down fruit, but always showing their cool night acidity. $25
2012 Michel Torino Torrontes Reserva Don David, Calchaqui, Argentina: Argentines make good use of this highly aromatic white for its super-refreshing, juicy profile and always-cleansing acidity. $17
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2010 Kellerei Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco Vorberg, Sudtirol-Alto Adige, Italy: Much baconlike cured meat goes down in this portion of Italy, so clean up what’s in this dish with this soft, apple-y white hinting at spice and nuts. $26