(2 forks)
4760 N. Lincoln Ave.
773-769-5600
Hours: 10 a.m.-1 a.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 10-3 a.m. Fri.;
10 a.m.-4 a.m. Sat.; 10 a.m.-midnight Sun.
Credit: A, D, M, V
Noise rating: Conversation-friendly
First impressions
The main dining room of this 13-year-old Lincoln Square restaurant emits a cozy ambience, with elaborately carved, dark wooden chairs and tables surrounded by Mexican-inspired murals. If you’re a smoker, you’ll enjoy sitting here. Non-smokers are not so lucky. They’re corralled into a drafty, unappealing area on the Lincoln Avenue entrance; we ate with our coats on. On another visit, we took our chances in the comfortable main room, and enjoyed a smoke-free meal, though that could have changed at any moment.
On the plate
Garcia’s large lineup includes a greatest-hits list that leans toward American palates: tacos, tostadas, burritos, enchiladas and combination plates. Portions are generous and ingredients fresh. Diners start their meals with a complimentary bowl of fresh, mild salsa and a basket of crunchy corn tortilla chips.
Second helpings
The kitchen takes a mild approach to seasonings, so if you’re averse to excess heat, you’ll love this place. The guacamole is all about the avocados; there’s little support from seasonings, but because they’re wonderfully ripe avocados, this creamy spread becomes a treat, especially when teamed with the house salsa. (You’ll still want to add salt and pepper.) Quesadillas are simply grilled tortillas and Chihuahua cheese, but again, the simplicity works. The tacos are as pretty as they are tasty: Petite flour tortillas hold towering layers of filling (ground beef, steak, chorizo, chicken and pork are among the options), shredded cheese, lettuce and onions. We liked the spicy (relatively speaking) and slightly smoky chorizo best. Fajitas arrive as sizzling as they ought to be; the meat is teamed with sauteed onions and bell peppers. We preferred the richer flavors of tangy marinated skirt steak over the bland chicken strips. Desserts are not to be missed, particularly the rustic, creamy flan swimming in a syrupy caramel. The beautiful tres leches cake, offered plain or mocha, sports a buttercream frosting that complements the firm but moist cake.
Take a pass
The meatless combination plate shows a serious lack of interest on the kitchen’s part. The avocado taco consists of a soft corn tortilla holding two avocado halves and some iceberg lettuce, while the bean tostada sports a large layer of the same refried beans that appear as a side. The cheese quesadilla, hidden beneath the taco, was the only item we liked.
At your service
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The polite but stoic staff quickly accommodates most requests.
Thirst quenchers
A full bar (including 25 tequilas) is available, as are sodas and coffee. Fruity, tangy sangria makes a better choice than the generic margarita.
Price range
Appetizers, $3.25-$9.50; salads, $3.25-$6; tacos, $1.70-$2; tortas, $3.25; dinners, $6.25-$11.50.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good