Sweep a soft, fuzzy leaf of sage beneath your nose. The smoky-minty aroma is like no other. Sage’s almost haunting scent seems to summon forth its long and significant history.
In ancient times, sage–its Latin name, salvia, means “safe”–was called on to ease dozens of ailments, from sore muscles to epilepsy. The ancient Greeks burned sage when offering prayers for guidance, and ancient Romans ate it for wisdom, Ann Lovejoy writes in “The Sage Garden.” In later centuries, English and French farmers drank sage-flavored beers to promote their health.
For us, though, sage parlays its magic in turkey stuffing. Stuffing without sage is akin to Turkey Day without turkey. Most holiday cooks count on sage’s earthy, powerful presence to hold its own against a 20-pound bird and the rich foods that surround it.
But an herb that has endured for thousands of years surely must have a larger role to play.
“Sage has just never gotten the push,” said Emelie Tolley, author of several herb books and, most recently, “Herbs: The Best of the Best,” a 2003 calendar with recipes and lore (Workman, $10.95). “We’ve all used it forever in stuffing, and that’s what we think it’s for.”
Sage’s strong personality–an astringent flavor that can be overwhelming–may be why many home cooks shy away from it.
“Sage is a little harder to work with,” acknowledged North Pond chef Bruce Sherman, standing beside the herb garden that flourishes outside his restaurant from spring through fall. “With mint or basil, I think they might be easier for home cooks to psychologically digest. Sage is earthier, and it’s much more fragrant than a lot of other herbs. It tends to be very assertive.”
“Of all the herbs, it’s the strongest,” said Patty Erd, owner of The Spice House in Chicago and Evanston, where sage sales hit their peak during the holidays. Erd sells sage in rubbed and leaf form, made from common sage. The coarsely ground rubbed sage tends to be preferred for use in stuffings, Erd said, over the finely ground version sold in supermarkets. Dried sage leaves are used the same way as rubbed; the whole leaves retain more of the herb’s volatile oils, so cooks crumble them just before adding the herb to dishes. Erd also sells sage in several heartier blends, where its strength can be an asset when teamed with other assertive herbs and foods.
Sage’s strength is perfect to team with meats, Sherman said. “It helps break down fattier meats–short ribs, game, oxtail.” Sherman also makes a pumpkin gnocchi with sage, and sprinkles fried sage on salads, soups and pureed squash. He teams sage with toasted nuts on roasted squash.
Rosemary Divock, author of “Growing and Using Herbs in the Midwest,” grows six varieties of sage in her Lake Geneva, Wis., herb garden. “People just don’t know how to use it,” Divock agreed. “I use sage in cakes and breads. I also make won ton pumpkin ravioli. It’s great with chicken.”
“You have to want the flavor of sage if you’re going to use it,” said Jay Lovell, executive chef and owner of Lovells of Lake Forest. “When you put sage in something–you’re going to taste sage.” Lovell’s Thanksgiving menu always includes a longtime family recipe for sage dressing. But he also uses sage year-round, especially in a white sauce that he likes to serve with salmon.
The salvia family includes hundreds of plants. Salvia officinalis, or common sage, is the one sold in supermarkets in fresh or dried form and the variety with which everyone is familiar.
Common sage is a beautiful woody shrub graced with elegant, silver-gray leaves. In the spring, it’s awash with velvety purple blossoms that also are edible. When the flowers fall, a new burst of leaf growth emerges and lasts till fall.
This tough plant, hardy in rough climates like ours, extends its strengths to the kitchen. Many herbs need a gentle hand or they lose all their flavor. Sage has moxie.
“Sage, like rosemary and thyme, is a rugged herb; it will hold up to roasting, stewing or grilling and still keep its character,” Jerry Traunfeld writes in “The Herbfarm Cookbook.”
Add to that an intoxicating scent, three seasons of beauty and a bounty of healthful properties, and you begin to see why gardeners and cooks are smitten with sage.
Sherman glanced at his sage plant’s beautiful, pungent leaves, still flourishing on a bright September day. “It’s been looking beautiful all summer,” Sherman said, “but I tend to associate sage with the heartier foods of winter.”
It is an herb to be thankful for–year-round, not just the fourth Thursday in November.
Cooking with sage
– Two teaspoons of fresh sage usually is sufficient for six servings, Jerry Traunfeld writes in “The Herbfarm Cookbook.” But he notes that the sage you buy at the market may be weaker in flavor than the sage you’ll grow in the back yard next spring and summer. Taste as you add–even when following a recipe.
– Use a 1-to-3 ratio when substituting dried sage for fresh, says Patty Erd, owner of The Spice House.
– Sage tastes better cooked than raw, not just because of its powerful flavor but also because of the chewy texture of its leaves. North Pond’s Bruce Sherman, like many chefs, flash-fries sage first: Heat a thin coating of canola or other mild oil in a pan until hot but not smoking. Cook the leaves until they’re dark green–not brown–10 to 15 seconds. Crumble this crunchy garnish over salads, soups, cooked vegetables and pastas.
– If you do use sage raw, or are cooking with more pungent leaves from the back yard, chef Jay Lovell suggests chopping the leaves very finely.
– Sage makes a great herb vinegar, says cookbook author Emelie Tolley. She suggests using a handful of leaves in a pint of red wine vinegar. Heat the vinegar, then let it steep for a few hours. Strain it into a bottle and store at room temperature for several months.
– Another tip from Tolley: Wrap cheese or butter in sage leaves, then wrap it in plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight. The cheese or butter will absorb some of sage’s bold flavor.
– Fresh sage can be kept in a sealed plastic bag about two weeks in the refrigerator’s crisper, Traunfeld says.
— Renee Enna
The alluring world of not-so-common sage
Dozens of edible sages exist, though the differences in flavor are usually very subtle, said Lee Jones of The Chef’s Garden in Ohio, a nursery that grows specialty sages exclusively for chefs and restaurants.
What more exotic varieties have over common sage, Jones says, are their elegant presentation and colors. “A lot of these are being used as a garnish,” he says.
Among these lovely varieties are golden sage, with yellow-and-green leaves; tri-colored sage and its green-and-white leaves with purple overtones; and purple sage’s purple-black leaves.
Jones also grows sages with distinctive culinary contributions: Berggarten sage has larger leaves that can be wrapped around small pieces of food, much as chefs do with grape leaves. And pineapple sage, with chartreuse leaves that do indeed smell delightfully of pineapple, works beautifully in desserts, such as sorbet, as well as iced teas and other beverages. Other flavored sages also exist.
The bad news (sort of) for cooks is that these unusual varieties are do-it-yourself projects best undertaken during the growing season. Many area nurseries and garden centers will sell a variety of herbs come spring, but you’ll still have to pot or plant them yourself. Most sages are easy to grow given enough sunshine and water. Some, like common sage, are hardy perennials that will overwinter, offering a supply every spring through fall; others, like pineapple sage, are too tender for our winters and will thrive only in summer.
The good news: All Whole Foods Markets in the Chicago area will be carrying purple sage (along with common sage) throughout the holidays. Some of the stores carry it year-round.
Three area nurseries that will be selling a variety of edible sages next spring:
– The Growing Place, 25W471 Plank Rd., Naperville, 630-355-4000; and 2000 Mont-gomery Rd., Aurora, 630-820-8088.
– Pesche’s Garden Center and Greenhouses, 170 River Rd., Des Plaines, 847-299-1300, www.peschesgardencenter.com.
– Ted’s Greenhouse, 16930 S. 84th Ave., Tinley Park, 708-532-3575.
– Mountain Valley Growers in California sells several varieties of certified organic sage plants by mail: visit www.mountainvalleygrowers.com or call 559-338-2775. They will ship here in the spring.
— R.E.
Pumpkin and sage soup
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from a recipe from Dean Zanella, executive chef at 312 Chicago. Zanella uses a 4-pound pumpkin to make this first-course soup, but here it is streamlined with canned pumpkin.
4 tablespoons olive oil
12 sage leaves
Salt
2 slices bacon, chopped
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1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 leek, washed, chopped
1/2 teaspoon brown sugar
Large pinch freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch ground allspice
1/2 cup apple cider
1/4 cup dry white wine
6 cups vegetable or chicken broth
1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin
1/4 cup half-and-half or whipping cream
Freshly ground pepper
Roasted pumpkin seeds, optional
1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in small skillet over medium heat. Add sage leaves; cook until leaves turn a deep green, 20-30 seconds, making sure leaves do not become brown. Remove leaves; drain on paper towels. Season with salt; set aside. Pour the hot sage oil into a metal bowl; let cool.
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a stockpot over medium heat. Add bacon and onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and the bacon is just turning golden, about 7 minutes. Add carrot, leek, brown sugar, nutmeg and allspice; cook until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add cider and wine; cook until almost evaporated. Add broth and pumpkin; simmer until heated through, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat.
3. Puree the soup in batches in a blender or food processor, about 1 minute per batch. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into the stockpot; add half-and-half, 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. If soup is too thick, add additional broth. Reheat if necessary. Pour into bowls; top with a drizzle of sage oil, fried sage leaves and pumpkin seeds.
Nutrition information per serving:
130 calories, 54% calories from fat, 9 g fat, 1.6 g saturated fat, 3 mg cholesterol, 765 mg sodium, 14 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 2.8 g fiber
Pumpkin Parmesan gnocchi with toasted sage
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 12 minutes
Yield: 8 servings as a side dish
This recipe from Bruce Sherman of North Pond restaurant can be a side to the feast or an entree for vegetarian guests.
1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin
1 egg
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving
1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon each or to taste: salt, white pepper
3/4 cup flour, sifted
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cubed
16 fresh sage leaves, finely minced
1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts
1 small apple, diced
Fresh parsley, chopped
1. Place the pumpkin in a non-stick skillet over medium-low heat; dry out the mixture by turning it with a heat-proof rubber spatula about 10 minutes, or until the mixture begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. Remove to a mixing bowl; cool to room temperature.
2. Add egg to pumpkin, mixing well. Add Parmesan, nutmeg and salt and pepper; stir just to combine. Add half of the flour, mixing lightly; add more flour just until mixture becomes tacky. (Overmixing the gnocchi will make them gummy.)
3. Working on a well-floured countertop, take a baseball-size amount of the dough and roll it forward and backward with the palms of both hands, gradually applying pressure to the center and out in either direction, forcing the mixture into a long log about 3/4-inch in diameter. Cut into 1-inch pieces. Lightly make a thumbprint in each piece with a well-floured thumb. Roll the gnocchi down the back of a fork’s tines to make the characteristic gnocchi marks. Place pieces on a well-floured tray. Repeat with remaining dough.
4. Heat a large pot of salted water to boiling; lower heat to a simmer. Meanwhile, heat a skillet over high heat until very hot; add the cubed butter, which will immediately smoke and sizzle. When the sizzling stops, add minced fresh sage. Cook 5 seconds. Add hazelnuts. Give the pan a shake to coat the nuts; cook 10 seconds. Add apples; shake pan again. Season with salt and pepper; set pan aside.
5. Carefully slide gnocchi in the gently simmering water; cook until they begin to float, about 2 minutes. Carefully strain them out; place in a heated serving bowl. Stir parsley into the apple mixture. Top gnocchi with the apple mixture; sprinkle shaved Parmesan on top. Serve hot.
Nutrition information per serving:
255 calories, 64% calories from fat, 19 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 295 mg sodium, 17 g carbohydrate, 7 g protein, 3 g fiber
Sage dressing
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
Adapted from a recipe from Lovells of Lake Forest. The restaurant will be open for Thanksgiving, and this dressing will be served with breaded turkey steak and chanterelle mushrooms.
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
2 ribs celery, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 loaf (1 1/2 pounds) thickly cut stale sandwich bread, cubed
1 1/2 teaspoons each: minced fresh sage, poultry seasoning
1 can (14 1/2 ounces) chicken broth, warmed
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat butter in small skillet over medium heat; add celery and onion. Cook until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Put bread cubes in large mixing bowl; add sage and poultry seasoning. Add vegetable mixture. Mix carefully to keep bread cubes from breaking. Add chicken broth, 1/4 cup at a time, until stuffing is moist but not wet. Season with salt and pepper. Put stuffing in 13-by-9-inch greased baking pan; cook until golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Nutrition information per serving:
270 calories, 39% calories from fat, 12 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, 740 mg sodium, 35 g carbohydrate, 7 g protein, 1.8 g fiber
Apple-sage cake
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Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 1 hour, 20 minutes
Yield: 12 servings
This lovely cake starts with a homemade sage-honey applesauce that can be made ahead. Adapted from “Growing and Using Herbs in the Midwest,” by Rosemary Divock.
Sage-honey applesauce:
3 large McIntosh apples, peeled, cored, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup honey
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 sage leaf
Cake:
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon each: baking soda, baking powder
1/2 teaspoon each: cinnamon, salt
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons brown sugar
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage
1 large McIntosh, Winesap or other cooking apple, peeled, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1. For applesauce, combine apples, honey, lemon juice and sage in heavy saucepan; cook over low heat until apples have softened, about 30 minutes. Remove pan from heat; discard sage leaf. Puree apple mixture in food mill or food processor. Let sauce cool to room temperature. You should have about 1 cup.
2. Heat oven to 350 degrees. For cake, sift flour, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon and salt together in medium bowl; set aside. Beat 1 cup of the brown sugar with 3/4 cup of the butter in bowl of an electric mixer until fluffy; beat in eggs until smooth. Combine the cup of applesauce and the minced sage; add to brown sugar-egg mixture, beating well. Gradually beat in flour mixture until well combined.
3. Toss apple slices with lemon juice. Butter bottom and sides of a 91/2-inch tube pan with remaining 2 tablespoons of the butter; sprinkle bottom and sides of pan with remaining 3 tablespoons of the brown sugar. Arrange apple slices overlapping on bottom of pan.
4. Carefully pour batter into pan. Bake until golden brown and cake tester comes out clean, about 50-60 minutes. Cool cake on wire rack 15 minutes. Loosen sides of pan; invert cake on wire rack.
Nutrition information per serving:
280 calories, 44% calories from fat, 14 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 260 mg sodium, 36 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 0.8 g fiber
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HOLIDAY SEASON 2002
Upcoming stories:
Nov. 24: A Canadian holiday Dec. 4: Cookie contest! Dec. 11: Best cookbooks for giving Dec. 18: Festive tamales Dec. 25: A gift of recipes