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A fine match for beef in any form is Robert Mondavi’s Woodbridge merlot. There’s an important distinction to be made immediately. This wine, 80 percent of it at least, comes from Lodi in California’s Central Valley, a hot region known over the years more for the quantity rather than the quality of its wines.

But at their Woodbridge winery, the Mondavis have shown that wines of character can be produced here. This merlot is one. Fruity and pleasant and not without nuance, it reflects the addition of a blend of wines from cooler growing areas and some aging in small oak barrels. It has a berry aroma, the popular “soft” tannins and tastes of cherry. It sells for $9.