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Meridian Vineyards, north of Santa Barbara, is one of the few large-production wineries in California able to consistently turn out wines with true varietal character. Ranking with winemaker Chuck Ortman’s sauvignon blanc, pinot noir and syrah is a newly released California pinot grigio.

Despite the name, this is not the typical pinot grigio of Italy. This version has more character, in part because part of the blend spends five months in small French oak barrels. It’s a bright and refreshing wine, with citrus aromas and flavors.

At $11, you can pour this at a party, or drink it yourself several days a week. Food matches include pasta with seafood, seafood stew, grilled chicken or chicken salad and pork chops.