(2 forks)
9430 S. Roberts Rd., Hickory Hills
708-599-7576
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily
Credit cards: A, M, V
Noise factor: Conversation friendly
First impressions
The Pit Rib House could not be accused of understated decor. This trim, boxy building embraces a zealous “we never met a collectible we didn’t like” approach, particularly as it applies to Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, the golden age of Hollywood and turn-of-the-century kitchen memorabilia. Amazingly, the effect is charming. The parking lot, at 7:30 on a Friday night, was jammed. We feared a huge line and were pleasantly surprised with a table in 5 minutes–the place seats 250 at comfortable dark wood tables and chairs. (Outdoor seating provides an additional 35 seats.)
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On the plate
The menu is more focused than the decor. Barbecue–pork, beef and chicken–reigns, with solid support from burgers and assorted sandwiches. Familiar appetizers (poppers, chicken wings, onion rings) can launch a meal, but keep in mind that dinners come with Texas toast and two side orders (choose from fries, baked potato, corn on the cob, baked beans, coleslaw or pasta salad). Every selection delivers a generous portion.
Second helpings
The barbecue sauce–tangy, not hot, with a sweet edge–will complement anything you deign to pour it on. The meaty half-slab of baby-back ribs pleased the rib aficionado at the table, though one taster thought them on the dry side. The BBQ chicken’s plump, juicy meat won all-round approval. The BBQ beef sandwich brings a heap of tender, nicely seasoned chopped beef on a freshly grilled kaiser roll. The balance of vinegar and sugar in the coleslaw compelled us to order an extra bowl on the side. The fries, cold and skinny on one visit, proved hot and fresh on another. The Pit also accommodates those who aren’t in the mood for ‘cue with a well-turned-out Greek salad. A mostly iceberg base is topped with a generous amount of feta cheese, pepperoncini, onions, tomatoes and bell peppers. And, of course, anchovies, if you want them. (We didn’t.) The tangy, oregano-laced dressing is made in-house.
Take a pass
Many of the halfhearted sides and appetizers disappointed us. The onion rings tasted mostly of charred breading. The sugary but dry sweet corn didn’t get more than a few nibbles.
At your service
The waitstaff works quickly and efficiently, whether the place is crowded or not. Management makes sure there are always enough employees to accommodate customers.
Thirst quenchers
What you would expect: soft drinks, iced tea, beer (draft and bottles) and wine.
Extras
Nine “Family Specials” serving two to eight people are good deals. And, back to the decor: We think walls that can substitute for reading material are always a plus.
Price range
Appetizers and sides, 50 cents-$6.10; salads, $2.55-$5.99; sandwiches and burgers, $3.25-$6.55; entrees, $5.99-$15.95 (for full slab of ribs); beverages, $1.49 to $3.55.
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the baiduhai.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good