The controversy over California’s 1998 reds is not likely to tone down until most of the wines from that weather-challenged vintage have disappeared from shelves and wine lists. In the meantime, here’s a wine that provides evidence that year was not an unqualified failure.
At $17, this cabernet is not for casual drinking, but it will lend a classy note to summer parties on patio or porch where grilled or smoked meat–beef or lamb especially–is served.
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The grapes for this wine came from several prime vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. Partial fermentation with whole grapes strengthened the aroma, extended maceration added color and a year-and-a-half in small oak barrels increased complexity. You should discover hints of black currant, tobacco and vanilla in the aroma and the full-bodied flavor of black cherry in the taste. Soft tannins promote a lovely mouth feel.