The south of Italy is all the rage these days with those who dictate, or try to dictate, food and wine fashion. Among the positive aspects of this “eyes south” movement is a return to earthy dishes and wines intended for the family dining table.
It also has brought us a wine from Apulia, or Puglia, as the Italians call it. Primitivo is a grape said to be the father of California’s zinfandel. The aroma and taste of this version contain suggestions of zinfandel. It is an earthy, full-bodied combination of plums and raisins seasoned with a sprinkling of herbs and a twist or two of the pepper mill.
It also may become the lower alcohol alternative to zinfandel. (The Feudo Monaci is 13 percent, 2 points less than some zins coming from California recently.) This is a wine that doesn’t need crystal goblets and should be drunk by the mouthful, not by sips. Not surprisingly, it is a friendly companion to tomato-based pasta sauces with or without meat, salads or sandwiches made with cold cuts or sausages and does well with soft Italian cheeses. At $9, zin’s daddy should be a popular choice when we all gather around the barbecue grill this summer.