3405 N. Paulina St.
773-281-0120
Kitchen hours: 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Fri., 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Sat., 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sun.
Credit cards: Not accepted
Noise rating: Conversation-friendly
First impressions
A captivating boutique in an antique Lakeview building, SuVan’s eclectic decor suggests a booth at an arts and crafts fair. The cheery, light yellow walls display framed fruit-crate logos, and an antique sewing machine holds coffee accouterments. Inside are eight tables for two; outside are eight additional seats. Waist-high display cases at the back are filled with baked goods. There is no public rest room. “SuVan,” incidentally, is a contraction of the first names of the two owners, Susan Maloney and Vanessa McManamon.
On the plate
Made-on-the-premises baked goods, which include quick breads, muffins, cookies, brownies and cakes, are enticing. The savory portion of the menu focuses on sandwiches plus two soups and a pair of salads. Considerable imagination has gone into the sandwich repertory, and breads are fresh and delicious. Upgrading some filling ingredients such as tomatoes would lift SuVan into the first rank of cafes serving light meals.
Second helpings
Veggie chili here is a flavorful broth that contains more than six still-firm vegetables topped with Cheddar cheese and served with crumbly cornbread that’s laced with hot chili flakes. Chili with ground sirloin is available too. “Grilled veggie delight” fulfills the promise of its title. Hummus is painted onto panini, then topped with baby spinach leaves, grilled zucchini, tomato slices and feta-dill cream cheese. Another sandwich, “That Turkey’s Smoking,” is a perfect balance of smoked turkey, melted provolone cheese and honey mustard. “The Cat’s Meow” provides a generous amount of tuna mixed with finely chopped celery and dill on toasted five-grain bread. On the sweet side, the mild peanut butter cookie–firm but pliant–neither cracks nor crumbles. Appealing muffins and scones are made by the book.
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Take a pass
Despite ethereal croutons and crisp romaine, chicken Caesar pita falls short due to a plate-size round of grainy pita bread, dry cubes of chicken and bad engineering that forces you to eat this as a salad, not a sandwich. “The Best BLT” isn’t. Despite crisp, beautifully cooked bacon and a tasty sauce of mayonnaise and sun-dried tomato, the tomato falls far short of greatness and there’s too little filling. The lemon bar is too sweet and too much.
At your service
Without exception servers are friendly, helpful and attentive. Even the inquiries about how a customer is enjoying the food appear to be sincere.
Thirst quenchers
Five coffees, five espresso drinks and a daily selection of tea, as well as Snapple and soda.
Prices
Sandwiches, $4.50 to $5.75; four little sandwiches for little people (including Elvis’ favorite, peanut butter and banana), $1.50 to $2.50; baked goods from 95 cents (cookies) to $3 (slice of layer cake). Coffee is $1.38 to $1.95 for a “bottomless cup.”
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Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. All meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Ratings key: 4 forks, don’t miss it; 3 forks, one of the best; 2 forks, very good; 1 fork, good