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Despite the fine pinot blanc wines that come to us from Alsace and a number of noteworthy examples made in this country, this grape variety continues to be regarded as a chardonnay pretender that lacks the depth and complexity of the most popular of white wines.

But the management at the Napa Wine Co. has taken up the cudgel for pinot blanc and is growing it in a prime Napa Valley vineyard near Yountville.

This wine has a bouquet of peach and pineapple floating upward from the glass and a complexity obtained by aging the wine in French and American oak. This $18 bottle contains a fruity, generous wine that really tastes good. Try it with seafood or chicken dishes flavored with herbs.