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“Pinot grigio,” sniffs British wine authority Jancis Robinson, “provides the most eloquent evidence of the theory that Italians do not like their white wines to be smelly.”
Evidently Americans feel the same way. Pinot grigio is among the best-selling imports to this country. A rare American version of this wine, better known outside Italy as pinot gris, is Forest Glen Winery’s version.
True, the aroma is restrained and the wine is on the light side , but it has plenty of ripe fruit flavor (I taste peach) and a lively feel. Pour it as an aperitif or serve it with salads featuring shellfish or chicken. Look for it at $10 a bottle.
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