After years of raising Styrofoam apples that looked great and shipped well, apple growers are beginning to realize that great flavor and firm texture may be the qualities Americans want most in the apples of their eye. Gradually, they are planting more apples with new names and novel flavors, in what one industry representative calls a “quiet revolution.”
The turnabout stems from a burst of activity in the 1960s and early 1970s, when science and nature created new varieties of American apples. At the same time, other varieties were introduced from abroad. This movement is slowly snowballing into what could be a major realignment of the selection available to consumers.
“We raise about 30 types,” said June Stover, whose fourth generation family-owned orchard and farm market is one of the attractions along U.S. Highway 31 just outside Berrien Springs. June, her husband, Ken, and his brother, George, sell apples and other fruit at as many as 11 farmers markets a week during the season.
The orchard immediately behind the Stover barn/store offers a hodgepodge of tree shapes and sizes. Rust-colored leaves on one group of trees are caused by fire blight, Stover said, walking through the orchard. “They’re Jonathans. We’ll replant them because the blooms draw bees real well.” The Stover farm is just one of many in Michigan, the nation’s No. 2 apple producer (far behind Washington State and just ahead of New York). These farms offer several non-traditional apples that have won or are beginning to win consumer favor.
Paulared and Gingergold, two wild varieties, were discovered in orchards during the 1960s (Paulared in Michigan, Gingergold in Virginia). Scientific crossbreeding brought us the Empire (a pairing of McIntosh and Red Delicious) and Jonagold (Jonathan and Golden Delicious). New types vying for grower attention include Zesta and State Fair (both flavorful late summer varieties), Redcort (a Cortland offspring from New York State), Golden Supreme (an earlier ripening version of Golden Delicious) and Honeycrisp (a cross of Macoun and Honeygold).
Variety is useful as a hedge against hostile weather and disease, Stover said, because different varieties react differently to each. And, because different varieties ripen at different times, they provide a longer season to draw people to the market and to the Stovers’ U-pick orchard.
Lodi and Mollies Delicious apples, for instance, ripen in late July, while Paulared comes along a month later, followed by Empire in late September. Granny Smith, Fuji and the newly popular Braeburn mature so late (early November) they are not widely planted in Michigan, from the fear that cold weather could damage the crop.
This year, though, heat and drought have caused early maturing and smaller fruit. But Michigan’s 1,100 orchards–85 percent of them less than 100 acres–will produce about 25 million bushels of apples, slightly above average, according to estimates.
“The farm markets are the place to go if you want to taste something different,” said Phil Schwallier, Michigan State University extension agent. In addition to some heirloom varieties that never will see the inside of a supermarket, varieties with names such as Pristine, Shamrock, Lucky Jon and Smoothee are popular at farmers markets and roadside stands.
Singular selections
Despite sharp increases in production costs and several money-losing seasons in the past decade, Schwallier said that producers are planting “a considerable number of new varieties” that promise better return than traditional varieties used for processing. (More than half the Michigan crop is destined to become juice, applesauce or frozen pie filling.)
“Apples are holding their own,” said Adam Rodriguez, a sales representative for Hilltop Nurseries in nearby Hartford. “There’s great movement of varieties that are consumed fresh, and growers are making good money with some of the new varieties.”
On the down side, prices for juice apples were very low last year, due in part to concentrate being imported by manufacturers, especially from China. The price of apples for the baking industry declined as well. Few, if any, varieties of apples are being developed strictly for cooking.
Schwallier cites the traditional favorites Red Delicious, McIntosh, Jonathan, Golden Delicious and Empire as the state’s top five apples. In the second tier are three relative newcomers: Gala, Jonagold and Gingergold.
At the same time that new varieties have been making inroads, consumer tastes have been changing.
Americans rate apples on crispness first, juiciness second and flavor third, according to authors Frank Browning and Sharon Silva in “An Apple Harvest” (Ten Speed Press, $19.95, due in bookstores in October).
“The consumer wants a crisp, juicy apple, not anything soft,” Rodriguez added.
June Stover agreed that crispness is a major selling point for apples and adds, “Our customers have been moving to bigger and brighter apples. Our best-seller here is the Mutsu. It’s really caught on the last few years.”
The Mutsu, known as the Crispin in New York, is a Japanese immigrant that is large, thin-skinned and crisp. Initially touted as a cooking apple, it now is considered dual-purpose.
The emphasis on crispness is seen as a positive evolution from a list of priorities that began with appearance and put long shelf-life ahead of taste or texture.
Beyond Granny Smith
David Bedford, a research scientist and apple breeder at the University of Minnesota, draws a parallel between the U.S. apple industry and the U.S. auto industry.
“Detroit was complacent and surprised when those Japanese-made smaller cars took off,” Bedford said. “With apples, it was the New Zealanders who shook our industry up in the ’70s when they introduced the Granny Smith. It wasn’t red, the texture was firm, not mealy, and it tasted tart. Now other tart, firm apples have caught on.”
Bedford is pleased with this trend, for good reason: He is a member of the team that developed the Honeycrisp, a firm and flavorful apple whose launch is drawing considerable attention in apple circles. (See related story on opposite page.)
In “An Apple Harvest,” the Honeycrisp is described: “Large, crisp, bursting with juice, mellow-sweet, consistent winner in new taste tests. Good keeper. Late summer through early autumn. Good for eating raw, frying, roasting and baking. (Will be popular in) North America, likely worldwide.”
It’s “the newest of the new,” according to Schwallier, who predicts significant production in Michigan within five years. About 200,000 Honeycrisp trees, developed to thrive in cooler climates, have been planted in the state since 1991. Some Michigan Honeycrisps should be available at Chicago-area Whole Foods Markets in late September.
“This apple breaks new ground in texture,” said proud parent Bedford. When you bite into it, it’s like eating a watermelon. A very juicy slab breaks away. It isn’t dense and hard and it isn’t soft. It redefines crisp.
“Why does this happen? We did some work with an electron microscope and discovered the cells are twice as large as any other apple we’ve looked at. It truly is different.”
Developments like this make Bedford optimistic about the industry.
“When I look at the other fruit crops, I think the apple has the greatest potential,” Bedford said. “The trend definitely is to fresh eating because people are eating on the go. And nothing is easier to take with you and eat than an apple.”
A LONG ROUTE TO A NEW APPLE
To speak of a “new” variety of apple is to use a relative term. For example, the Granny Smith, which arrived in American supermarkets in the 1970s, was developed in the last century. Braeburn, another “new” apple, was developed in the 1950s.
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Why such a long journey from seedling to lunch box? Here’s a thumbnail sketch of the history of the Honeycrisp, Michigan’s newest hit apple. It comes from David Bedford, research scientist and apple breeder at the University of Minnesota’s Department of Horticultural Science. Bedford was responsible for the apple’s release.
– Spring 1961: A mother tree is artificially pollinized. The varieties being cross-bred are the Macoun, a flavorful offspring of the McIntosh, and Honey Gold, which has the texture of Golden Delicious. No one knows what traits the cross will exhibit, but each one will be distinct and none will be a clone of either parent. About 200 seeds will be culled from the tree and spend the winter in pots in a greenhouse.
– Spring 1962: The infant trees from this and other crosses, an annual total of 3,000 to 5,000 trees, are transplanted to an orchard. It will be 8 to 10 years before they bear fruit. (New methods involving dwarf root stock have shortened this step to about 4 years.)
– Spring 1971: Four or five apples from the Class of ’61, approximately one in 700 tested, are rated exceptional, and four clones of each tree are grafted onto fresh root stock and planted in a second test plot. The future Honeycrisp is given the number 1711.
– Spring 1976: No. 1711 bears fruit, and both fruit and tree are subject to intense evaluation. This might continue for 10 to 15 years, but Bedford, who inherited responsibility for the apple in 1979, sent No. 1711 onto the next stage after only seven years. “It was a no-brainer,” he recalls.” I don’t expect to come across a better apple in my lifetime.”
– Spring 1983: An additional 20 trees are propagated and some are sent to the university’s two other testing stations for evaluation in different microclimates and soils. The apples from No. 1711 also are evaluated for yield, appearance, disease resistance, storage capability and, of course, flavor from one year to another.
– Spring 1989: No. 1711 has a name, Honeycrisp, a patent and a green light for commercial development. The university announces the launch and sends material to nurseries across the country. Requests come back for 120,000 buds, far more than can be supplied. For a royalty of 80 cents per tree, a nursery receives grafting sticks and a license to sell the Honeycrisp.
– Spring 1991: The Honeycrisp buds have become small trees and are made available to growers. An adventurous grower may buy 100, a more cautious grower 20. The trees will not produce a crop for four or five years and it may be another two or three years before the apples are true to type.
– Spring 1999: Bedford estimates that about 400,000 Honeycrisp trees are planted in commercial orchards, about half in Michigan. Last year’s crop from nurseries sold out and the number of apples coming to market this month will be larger. Orders are strong. The Honeycrisp is a hit before most consumers are even aware of it.
GINGER APPLE PIE
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Chilling time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 8 servings
Adapted from a recipe by June Stover of Berrien Springs, Mich.
Crust:
2 1/4 cups flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 stick (1/2 cup) plus 3 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
7 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening
4 to 5 tablespoons ice water
Filling:
5 cups peeled, cored, sliced baking apples
1 pear, peeled, cored, sliced
1 piece (1/8-inch thick) ginger root, peeled, minced
1/2 teaspoon each: ground nutmeg, ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
3/4 cup whipping cream
1. For crust, mix flour, sugar and salt in food processor fitted with metal blade or in large bowl. Scatter butter pieces over flour mixture, tossing to coat butter with flour. Cut butter into flour with five 1-second pulses of machine or with pastry blender. Add shortening; pulse 4 times or until dough resembles coarse cornmeal. Turn mixture into medium bowl.
2. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of the ice water over mixture. Lightly toss with fork until dough begins to stick together, adding up to 2 tablespoons more ice water if needed. Divide dough in half; shape into 2 balls, one slightly larger than the other. Flatten balls into 4-inch-wide discs. Wrap in plastic wrap or wax paper; refrigerate 30 minutes before rolling.
3. Heat oven to 425 degrees. For filling, toss together apples, pear, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon and salt in large bowl; set aside.
4. Roll larger half of dough out on lightly floured surface to 12-inch circle. Loosen dough from surface; fold into quarters and transfer to 9-inch pie pan. Unfold and gently ease dough into pan, being careful not to stretch. Trim edge with knife, leaving 1-inch overhang. Patch any holes or tears with scraps of dough.
5. Fill crust with apple mixture. Stir together sugar and flour in small bowl; sprinkle over apples. Pour cream over apples.
6. Roll out remaining half of crust. Place over apple mixture. Lightly moisten edge of bottom crust with water; press edge of top crust down on bottom to seal. Crimp as desired; cut steam vents in crust.
4. Place pie on baking sheet. Bake 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees; bake until crust is golden and apples are tender when pierced through vent holes with sharp knife, 50-60 minutes. Cool on wire rack.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 610 Fat ………… 36 g Saturated fat .. 18 g
% calories from fat .. 52 Cholesterol … 75 mg Sodium ……. 375 mg
Carbohydrates …… 71 g Protein ……… 5 g Fiber ……… 3.4 g
CHICKEN BREASTS STUFFED WITH APPLE AND GOAT CHEESE
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 12 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Use any firm, sweet-tart apple, such as Braeburn, for this recipe, say authors Greg Patent and Dorothy Hinshaw Patent in “A is for Apple” (Broadway, $15). Serve it with pureed butternut squash, scalloped potatoes or fried potatoes.
6 large boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
Salt, freshly ground pepper
1 large, firm apple, quartered, cored, peeled, shredded
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons goat cheese
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons flour
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
1 1/3 cups fine fresh bread crumbs
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons each: unsalted butter, olive oil
1. Place chicken breasts on large sheet of wax paper. Cover with another sheet of wax paper. Pound chicken to 1/4-inch thickness. Remove top sheet of wax paper; season side of chicken facing up lightly with salt and pepper.
2. Combine apple, goat cheese and zest in bowl. Spread mixture evenly over half the surface of each breast. Fold each breast in half; press edges together to form packet. Secure edges with wooden picks.
3. Sprinkle flour onto clean sheet of wax paper. Beat egg with 1 tablespoon water in pie plate. Combine bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese in shallow dish. Dust each breast lightly with flour, dip into egg mixture to moisten all surfaces; coat with crumbs, patting crumbs gently in place. (The chicken can be prepared up to this point several hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring chicken to room temperature before cooking.)
4. Heat butter and oil in large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add chicken packets; cook until nicely browned and cooked through, about 6 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.
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Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 575 Fat ………… 23 g Saturated fat .. 9 g
% calories from fat .. 36 Cholesterol .. 205 mg Sodium …… 555 mg
Carbohydrates …… 25 g Protein …….. 64 g Fiber …….. 1.6 g
APPLE-PECAN-CRANBERRY CRISP
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
Developed in the Tribune test kitchen.
3 large Jonagold or Braeburn apples or combination of each, unpeeled, cored, sliced
1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries, see note
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
1/2 cup lightly toasted, chopped pecans
1/4 cup flour
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place apple slices and cranberries in 9-inch pie plate or casserole. Add lemon juice, 3 tablespoons of the brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon of the ground ginger and salt; toss to combine. Pat fruit to compress in plate; flatten top evenly.
2. Combine oats, nuts, flour, remaining brown sugar and remaining ginger in medium bowl. Cut in butter using pastry blender, 2 knives or fingers to distribute butter evenly. Sprinkle topping evenly over fruit; press down lightly.
3. Bake until topping is golden and fruit is soft when pierced with sharp knife, 50-60 minutes. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream.
Note: Dried cranberries or tart cherries can be substituted for fresh. Rehydrate in very hot water about 30 minutes. Drain well.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 355 Fat ……….. 19 g Saturated fat .. 8 g
% calories from fat .. 46 Cholesterol .. 30 mg Sodium …… 105 mg
Carbohydrates …… 47 g Protein …… 2.8 g Fiber ………. 5 g
GINGERED CARROT AND APPLE SOUP
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 10 servings
Adapted from “A is for Apple.”
1 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled, thinly sliced
2 large tart apples, such as Cortland, Winesap, Arlet, Sunrise, Newtown Pippin or Granny Smith, peeled, cored, thinly sliced
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 piece ( 1/2-inch thick) ginger root, peeled, minced
4 cups water
1 can (16 ounces) chicken broth
1/2 cup whipping cream, optional
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper, or to taste
Chervil leaves, optional
1. Combine carrots, apples, onion, ginger and water in heavy, medium saucepan. Cover pan; heat to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium. Cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until very tender, about 30 minutes.
2. Puree soup with immersion blender and stir in broth. Or, puree in batches in blender, gradually adding broth while motor is running. Transfer puree to saucepan. Stir in cream, if using; add salt and pepper. Taste; adjust seasoning.
3. Heat soup until very hot but not boiling. Ladle soup into bowls; garnish with chervil sprigs, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………… 70 Fat ……….. 0.6 g Saturated fat .. 0.1 g
% calories from fat .. 7 Cholesterol …. 0 mg Sodium …….. 405 mg
Carbohydrates ….. 15 g Protein ……. 1.9 g Fiber ………. 3.5 g